Friday, July 19, 2013

Yellow Mush and Igloos


"Merry decided that if there was no school for Neeraj, she’d simply have to build one." - Roy Grinker

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It was hot, really hot. 

And not hot like, “Oh, the sun is beating down on me, I need to put some sun screen on” at the beach hot. 

No, not like that at all…

Outside, the sky was full of gray clouds, the same damn clouds that have been here since I arrived.  Just sitting there, holding moisture, creating humidity, and mocking me from above as I sweat my ocean-breeze loving California boy ass off. 

I’m in a small conference room with about 25 people, each feeling the heat as harshly as I.  The electricity had just gone out, and with it the fans that were our only savior from the monsoon season lurking outside.

I look down at my lunch, which composed of some form of pita like bread, some random pickled vegetables, and a vegetarian pile of yellow mush, all which had been purchased for a mere 30 rupees (about 50 cents).

Sweat dripping down my face and hoping I’m not about to get sick, I couldn’t be more excited to be there.

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As I took a bite of the mush combined with the pitaesque bread, an amalgamate of spice hits my palate and immediately transforms into easily the best vegetarian main dish I’ve ever eaten.

I look over at the wall to see a huge poster with the manifest for “Action for Autism” (AFA), the leading organization for autism research and treatment in a country of 1 billion people.  On it are a list of the rights the organization feels individuals with autism are entitled to, as well as what appear to be signatures from researchers, teachers, parents, and children.  I speak candidly with several others in the room about my background, and am soon introduced by the center’s head researcher to the full staff which comprises research staff, occupational therapists, teachers, and teacher assistants.

Then, everybody ate family style.  Indian style potato salad (aka five-spice potatoes), a sweet and tart style yogurt, and my favorite besides my yellow mush: ‘lady fingers’ which were thin green peppers dipped in some type of other orange mush.  Even with the heat, everyone is gregarious and upbeat, simply trying to enjoy their short lunch break before getting back to the work they love. 

I meet the woman who started AFA, a kind, but assertive lady by the name of Merry.  Her story is amazing to say the least.  I first read about it in Dr. Roy Grinker’s novel, Unstrange Minds, a novel I’ve gone on to recommend to family, friends, and other people in the field.  It chronicles Grinker’s travels throughout the world to see how different cultures and societies view and tackle the issue of autism.  Grinker is an anthropologist at George Washington University in Washington D.C. and became interested in autism when his daughter, Isabella, was diagnosed several decades ago.  I actually had the opportunity to meet him last year and lead a class discussion after he came to talk about his work in South Korea.  Needless to say, he’s one of my biggest research influences.

But back to Merry.  Grinker spends the better part of two chapters talking about Merry and her contributions to autism awareness and treatment in India.  Her son, Neeraj, was diagnosed with autism in the mid-80s, and like any good mother, wished and wanted the best for him.  However, as in many other parts of the world at the time, there was little help and education on the matter.  So, she took matters into her own hands and created and molded AFA into what it is today.  

Here is an excerpt from the book where Grinker describes his first encounters with Merry.  I thought about including more, but want to encourage everyone reading to spend the $10 for the book and get the rest of the story.

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It’s 9 A.M. on a Monday morning in January 2005, south Delhi, India, and my taxi driver, having stopped three times to ask passersby for directions, looks as if he’s about to give up. He’s taken me to the right neighborhood, Sheik Serai Phase 2, but it’s a run-down area with few landmarks, and stray cows walking the streets. It’s bigger than I thought it would be, and I don’t have an actual address. “The place is called ‘Action for Autism,’” I tell him, “just above Mahavira Chemist,” but he says he doesn’t know this word “autism” and suggests we go back to my hotel. Ten minutes later, I’m the one who finds it, a small white banner  hanging from the third floor of a crumbling building in a Delhi slum, that said “Action for Autism, Open Door.”

I’m carrying a large, heavy box from IKEA. Before I left the United States, I had asked the director, Merry Barua, if there was anything I could bring her, and she had sent back an enigmatic e-mail reply, “igloos.” At first I thought it was a joke that I just didn’t get, but I decided to e-mail back for clarification. There was no reply. Was it a cooler she wanted? Was this a sarcastic joke about refrigerator mothers?* Maybe the igloo was a metaphor for India’s failure to provide an appropriate place for autistic children, a symbol of autism’s alien character. But then, knowing how much children with autism like to hide in tents and cupboards, Joyce suggested I go to IKEA in College Park, Maryland, where, to my utter surprise, they sold small, white, dome-shaped tents designed to look like igloos.  When I got to Delhi, Merry would say flatly, as if she knew they were coming all along, “Oh good, you found igloos.”

To get to the offices of Action for Autism, I go up three flights of dark stairs, past barely visible wall paintings of sea life, to a cold, crumbling group of dusty classrooms and a tiny central office where the director and her staff work cheek by jowl. One level higher, the teachers watch a dozen students play for a while before dividing them up into four small classrooms. Everyone is coughing and rubbing their eyes this morning, the result of a combination of the weekend’s accumulation of dust and the fumes of masala being fried downstairs. This seems like an unlikely place to find the person who knows more about autism than anyone else in New Delhi, a city of 14 million people, and the capital of India (pop. 1.1 billion). 

The founder and director of Action for Autism has no advanced degrees and no special training in child development. In a status-conscious country like India, she can’t even get invited to speak at scientific conferences. But Merry Barua has arguably done more to increase autism awareness than anyone else in India. Small and thin, with black hair, cut short but tousled in a stylish way, Merry looks most comfortable with herself when she’s wearing blue jeans and eating Domino’s pizza. In her tiny office suite, she’s totally in control, but she gives her assistants responsibility and decision-making powers. She darts from place to place but never seems intrusive. One moment she’s caffeinated, multitasking, all at once on the phone, proofreading a hard copy of a grant proposal, and, if the electricity and phone lines are working, looking for something on the Internet; the next moment, she is sitting quietly with a distraught mother who wonders if there is any place on earth for her son, a mother who, at least for that moment, feels she is Merry’s only concern.   

- Grinker, Roy Richard (2008-08-05). Unstrange Minds.

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Lunch ends, and everybody goes back to their respective areas to continue to work with both kids and adults on the autism spectrum.  AFA has expanded quite a bit since Grinker’s novel, and now resides in a several story brick building in a small neighborhood of Delhi.  They continue to be India’s pioneers in research, treatment, treatment dissemination (incredibly important!!), and awareness. 

While this is amazing, and AFA as an organization is incredible in all it does, I can’t help but be shaken by the fact that this resource is one of the very few that all of India has… a nation that is estimated to have as many as 430,000 children with autism.**

Fuck.

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Footnotes:

*The term “Refrigerator Mothers” refers to what “professionals” initially considered the cause of autism, which was a lack of love from parents, primarily the mother.  These “professionals” used this term for “cold” mothers who were supposedly causing the symptoms of a child with autism.  Dumbasses.


**Calculated through population records and current CDC estimates of autism prevalence

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